I have the majority of the electrical board wired up. The bundles on the right are for the injectors, ignition coils and engine sensors. The bundle on the left are the unused input/outputs for future use. The brown bundle is the 4 canbus lines. This board contains the MS3x ECM, the autometer dual channel pyrometer controlled, 5 80 amp relays and a 12v to 5v DC power converter. 

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The truck has been in this state for a few weeks. I tore the heads off as i will be replacing the stock iron L98 heads with aluminum heads. Still not sure which ones. I also will be removing the engine to install a modified oil pan with -12 oil drain back bungs welded on to it. I am also replacing the motor plate and installing a mid plate. The transmission is getting a few upgrades and a new converter. The stock wiring will be coming out, all Jtec related wiring will be removed from the harness, as will the air bag and abs systems. The ABS unit and module will be removed and a manual proportioning valve will be installed

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Engine and Accessories

  • Used 1987 350 L98 Chevy engine - $250
  • Used 1987 350 4 bolt roller block for future 383 build (Craigslist) - $100
  • New stock style 5qt oil pan - $89.99
  • Jegs cast aluminum tall style centerbolt valve covers, part# 555-50104 - $84.99
  • Russel push-in chrome filtered breathers - $16.99 x2
  • Felpro Permaseal valve cover gaskets - $10.99
  • Felpro intake manifold gaskets - $6.99
  • New stock 3.9 power steering pump - $37.99
  • New 96' 2wd power steering pressure hose - $28.99
  • Early GM single V belt power steering pulley - $0
  • 54" V belt - $7.99
  • 55" V belt - $7.99
  • Reconditioned factory power steering and alternator brackets - $0
  • 1/4" crankshaft pulley spacers - $16.99
  • New harmonic balancer bolt - $7.99
  • 8" Harmonic balancer - $149.99
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Year/Model - 

2000 Dodge Dakota Sport, Regular Cab, 2wd


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When I initially installed the engine combo for mock up, I had intended to use a small cap HEI distributor. However, as things often do, plans changed and I decided to go with a remote coil large cap HEI distributor. This meant that I would not have sufficient room to remove or install the cap with the engine in the vehicle, nor would I have proper clearance for the remote coil cap adapter.

So this required some modification to the firewall, and cutting up of fresh paint. It ended up going pretty smooth and was well worth it.

First I had to decide just how much I was going to remove, this required some measuring and measuring again to ensure I didn't remove too much, or even worse, not enough.

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