Racers have long coveted a universal timing controller that would allow them to seamlessly merge various ignition controls and data logging functions with different racing applications. So it was no surprise a few years back when Autotronic Controls Corporation, better known as MSD Performance, came up with that very hardware.
MSD’s versatile Power Grid system was originally conceived when turbo drag cars underwent a wholesale conversion from gasoline to alcohol in search of greater performance. Boost levels quickly escalated and engine builders began switching from Digital 7 ignition boxes to Digital 8s to ensure the spark energy required for richer fuel mixtures. To retain the full programmability found on the sevens, they had to merge the two boxes, prompting MSD to consider developing a programmable Digital 8 unit.
The NMRA’s Street Outlaw class is undergoing a resurgence, and Rhode Island’s Kevin Volk is smack dab in the middle of it with this gorgeous new GT500 Mustang built by Jason Enos, Bill Gilsbach and the fabrication team at Victory Racecraft in Massachusetts. You may remember Kevin as one half (along with his father, Karl) of the Karl’s East Coast Speed team from when they took their old Shelby into the eight-second zone way back in 2010. “When we left off with the other Shelby, it was fast, but it wasn’t built for a class, or anything other than to say that we had a fast Shelby. Now we decided to build for a class, with a set of rules, and compete against other people instead of just ourselves. With what we have learned from building the other car, we’ve been able to apply those ideas to the new combination in a top-notch car, and we plan to be competitive wherever we race,” says co-owner and driver Kevin.
- Remove mechanical advance mechanism and/or lock it out on the distributor. You should not have any advance mechanism setup in the distributor! There are different ways to disable or lock out advance mechanisms, see your distributor instructions for details.
- Bring the engine up to TDC on #1 Cyl on the compression stroke.
- Roll engine on over to approximately 30 degrees advance BTDC, or whatever base timing you’re targeting for full advance on the engine.
- Crank Trigger wheel should be mounted so that one of the four magnets is lined up approximately with the sensor bracket hole when it’s in the center position in it’s travel. There is only about 20 degrees of adjustment in the Sensor Bracket, so setting the trigger wheel in this fashion should give you plenty of adjustment in both directions. Also make sure the Arrow on the trigger wheel is visible, it should face out (away from the engine). Failure to do so will have the wrong polarity on the magnets and cause false triggering at higher RPMs.
- Install Sensor into adjustable bracket. Sensor should be centered on the trigger wheel front to back. If it isn’t, you may have to add or remove shims from the adjustable trigger mount. You should have about .050 to .080 air gap between the sensor and the trigger wheel. Avoid using less gap than .050 as any radial run out in the balancer may cause the wheel to hit the sensor.
Decided to get the black truck out and clean it up a bit, had a layer of dust from the old shop. First time it’s been washed since I parked it four years ago. The blue truck still needs a bath.
I’d like to announce a new local site for the Dayton, Ohio area. Dayton Street Society, the home for Dayton and surrounding area car scene. Everyone is welcome, imports, domestics, bikes or race cars. So if you are local, check it out!
While car collectors in Oklahoma might have heard about it, not many actually got to see the inside of Oliver Jordan’s Enid, Oklahoma-based salvage yard. That’s because, in a decades-long fight with local officials, he guarded it from sight, ringed it with barbed wire, and hardly let a soul in to see it. This summer, however, the gates to the yard will open up for one last time as the entire collection heads to auction.
So basically they are saying, shut up, don’t point out the piss-poor moderation, or the fact they move and delete posts that trash their shady platinum vendor P.I.E, or else you will be banned. Banning dozens of members, some long standing members who helped the group grow to what it is, is simply idiotic and a sign that they are out of control. I can only laugh as they implode all the while lying about it and pretending the ship isn’t sinking.
For going on 16 years now I have belonged to one, or numerous automotive related websites and forums at one time or another. Usually it would change from time to time as my interests changed and I built and sold various projects. Sometimes I would even build a specialty website catering to a single model or brand (this very website was at one time a Buick Regal specialty site!). But, the one thing that they all shared, was a common love for whatever it was, be it a Chevrolet, a Ford or even an import. The common interest usually was the dominant theme running throughout the community. Sure, when you take several hundred, thousand or tens of thousands of people, and you bring them all together, you will from time to time have friction. People are people and no one always gets along. When instances did flame up, the community, be it the members themselves ,or the site/groups moderators almost always did their best to extinguish the fires before they consumed the group as it was in the best interest of preserving the community.
Which leads me to present time.
We now have a rift in the Mopar, specifically the Dakota family, that is fostering an us versus them attitude, all the while a national level organization using it’s might to divide the community, and silence the voices of those that dare disagree with their agenda of separatism and personal attacks against those who shed light on their antics. Or to protect their vested interest in their largest vendor after numerous unhappy customers and poor work, or to cover up the current leaders personal agendas. Regardless of the reasoning, it’s nothing but bad news for the community, and for the hobby in general.
We are part of a hobby that is under constant attack, be it from environmentalists, by legislators, or even simply by higher and higher fuel prices. The last people with whom we need to be feuding with are the very same people we share an interest with. Turning a national level organization into nothing more than a hammer to crush your supposed enemies does nothing to grow the hobby, and only drives more and more people away. Even now, they are losing members and many more are dropping out once their dues are up. Will these people disappear? Of course not, they will simply fragment off to smaller groups/sites and stay there. What purpose does that serve? When did splitting a group into two factioning armies ever produce anything beyond a constant feud?